Category: Fly of the Month

Tying instructions and materials needed to tie a specific fly. Often the fly that is going to be tied in the upcoming month’s fly tying class.

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Coming Out Midge Emerger

by Elaine Cook -- Fly Tying Chairman

This pattern was orininated by Jeff Henkemyer and simulates the emerging stage of a midge. Midges are a very important food source for trout in the winter. They are imparative to have in your fly box when fishing tailwaters and spring creeks throughout the year. Apply floatent and use a floating line with 4x, 5x or 6x tippet, depending on size of fish? If unable to see when fishing, trail a foot or 18 inches behind a fly more visible. A simple fly to tie, with few materials. Magnification for this very small fly is most important to get the details of the fly accurate. With small flies, every wrap of thread counts. Don’t bulk up the fly.

Hook: TMC 2487   Sizes 18-22

Thread: black 8/0

Tail (shuck): grizzly hen hackle tip

Body: black thread

Hackle: grizzly

1. Crimp barb.

2. Attach thread 1/3 back on hook shank. Touching wraps to beyond barb, then touching wraps to above barb.

3. Select a very small hen neck feather. Position on top of shank so it extends hook length to rear. With touching wraps forward, tie in up to hook point. Cut excess.

4. Moisten fibers at end of Zelon, pull to straighten a little. Make cut straight across. Pinch fibers, then tie to top of shank with touching wraps to one eye length behind eye. Cut excess. Tie down butt ends. Cut off any stray fibers. Tilt hook back in vise a little.

5. Select hackle with barbs 1 and 1/2 hook gap. At butt end, cut about 4 barbs short on each side of the stem “crew cut”.  With dull side facing you, tie in “crew cut”with touching wraps back to wing. Using touching hackle turns forward, forcing thread forward with each turn, end up one eye length behind eye. Tie off cut excess.

6. While holding hackle back out of the way, wrap small thread head. Whip finish, cut thread. Cut off any whiskers.

Posted on December 30th, 2020

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Bird’s Nest

by Elaine Cook--Fly Tying Chairman

Hook: Mustad 3906 or TMC 3769 (substitution , TMC 5262). Sizes 12-16

Thread: black 6/0, but I prefer 8/0

Rib: small gold wire

Tail: lemon wood duck flank feathers

Abdomen: Australian possum dubbing ( substitution,  grey rabbit dubbing )

Legs: same as tail

Thorax: same as abdomen

1. Attach thread 1/3 back on shank.

2. Position wire under shank. Wrap in place to rear of shank. NOTE: wire under shank prevents it from repositioning tail when spiraling it forward.

3. Line up tips of feather out to side of stem. Cut about 8 from stem. Tie to top of shank, tips extending about 2/3’s shank length beyond shank. Cut excess mid shank.

4. Dub a slightly tapered body 2/3’s shank forward.

5. Spiral rib forward in about 5 wraps. Tie off. Twist wire to break. NOTE: wire dulls scissors.

6. Using one feather, line up tips just beyond rear of hook. Fold feather around hook shank. Tie in place with a couple wraps. Check to see if barbs extend backward all the way around shank. Make a couple more thread wraps. Cut excess.

7. Using dubbing loop, wrap a generous fuzzy thorax.

8. Holding fuzz back, wrap a sm. thread head. Tie off. Cut excess.

 

Posted on November 24th, 2020

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Vernille Caddis

by Fly tying instructor : Elaine Cook

Vernille Caddis

This is one of my “go to flies”. A caddis hatch does not need to be occurring for trout to gobble this one up. The larger sizes work well for the Rocky Mountains, smaller for the Sierra. Fish with a floating line, drag free, in moving water.

Hook: TMC or TFS 2487 (or similar  scud hook ) , sizes 12-16

Thread: olive or olive dun, 8/0

Body: olive (vernille, ultra chenille, or velvet chenille), size small or standard (depending on brand). Super Glue or Zap-A-Gap.

Underwing: dun spooled Antron, light or dark

Hackle: dun, light or dark to match underwing, barbs equal to slightly less than hook gap

Wing: light or light tipped deer hair

1. Position hook in vise so that straight lower portion is parallel to table. Crimp barb.

2. Attach thread behind eye. Wrap to rear, with touching wraps to above hook point.

3. Round end of body material using a candle. Carefully melt the end buy placing it near the base of the flame. Apply glue to thread wraps. Position  on top of shank, tip above rear of hook. Tie in place with spiral wraps up to 2 eye lengths behind eye. Cut excess.

4. Cut end of underwing material to even fibers. Lay on top of body with tips slightly beyond end of body. Tie down infront of body while splaying fibers. Cut excess. Tie butt ends down up to eye.

5. Prep hackle by removing fuzzy end then cutting 4-5 barbs short on each side of butt end of stem (crew cut). Position crew cut under shank, tip of feather to rear. Tie in place back to body then forward to eye.

6. Cut match stick size bundal of hair, clean and stack tips. Position tips at rear of Antron. Tie in place with first wrap around HAIR ONLY, then firmly around hair and shank a couple times to splay fibers. Stroke butt hairs into bundal over eye forming start of head. Wrap a thread collar back to body. Advance thread back to head. Make one loose thread wrap around bundle of hair above eye, then one around collar. Trim head at an angle (see photo).

7. Make several wraps of hackle up to head. Tie off cut excess. Finish with half hitches under head , behind eye. Small amount glue to tie off threads.

 

 

Posted on October 28th, 2020

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Colorado King Caddis

by Elaine Cook

Although caddis don’t have tails,  this pattern includes two stabilizing peccary. I’m not sure what trout make of these, but it’s a very effective pattern. Due to the coloring it may represent a bee to the fish. Apply floatent, fish drag free or with an occasional skitter.

HOOK: TMC or TFC 100, sizes 8-18.    Crimp Barb.

THREAD: black 8/0.   Attach mid shank. Wrap to rear of shank.

BODY: yellow or golden/yellow , superfine or rabbit dubbing.    Dub a small ball at rear of shank. Leave thread hanging in front of ball.

TAIL: 2 black peccary hairs or can substitute other coarse black hair such as moose main or body.    Position one hair on far side of ball, tip extending hook length to rear. Make 3 wraps. Pull on butt end of hair until it extends hook shank to rear or a little shorter. Tie in place. Cut excess.

HACKLE: grizzly.    Select feather with barbs equal to one or one and a quarter hook gap. Cut several barbs short on each side of base of stem (crew cut). Tie crew cut in infront of ball, light side facing you.

BODY CONT. : same dubbing.    Dub a non tapered body forward to 2 eye lengths behind eye.

HACKLE: same feather.   Palmer forward in about 5 wraps. Tie off, cut excess.

WING: bleached or light deer hair, with med. fine hairs.    Cut a sm. clump an effectiveof hair from hide. Clean out fuzz. Stack tips. Position on top of shank, tips extending to mid tail. Make first thread wrap around only the hair, the second wrap around both hair and shank. Make several snug wraps , making hairs flare. Cut hair butts short at an angle. Wrap thread head covering all hair stubs. Whip finish, cut thread. Apply Zap-A-Gap or similar. If any hairs remain exposed in thread head, use black Sharpie.

Posted on September 25th, 2020

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Mr. Bill

by Elaine Cook

This is my number one “go to” dry fly for trout in either still or moving water. Very important to follow these directions carefully when it comes to proportions, thread wraps and handling and positioning materials. Some helpful hints (tips) will be included that can be applied for tying other flys.

Hook: TMC or TFS 100, or equivalent standard dry fly hook. Sizes 12-16

Thread: black 8/0, 12/0 for size 16 hooks if you wish.

Tail: golden phesant tippet (5-6 barbs) (Tip: Names of the parts of a feather: stem- projection from skin, Barb- projection from stem, barbule- projection from Barb which are difficult to see in most feathers.)

Body: peacock herl with long, easy to see barbules (2-3) (Tip: Herl is fragile , test by gently pulling on tip. If it breaks further than one inch down, discard. Whole feathers are usually better than packaged. Have found whole feathers at the farmers market in Aptos.).

Wing: white calf tail (crinkly, not straight hairs)

Hackle: brown saddle. Tip: Saddle hackle feathers are long, have soft stems, and barb lengths are the same. Best used for dry flies, popper necks, and some buggers. Neck hackle feathers are short, have stiff stems, barbs become shorter near tip. Best used for streamers, popper legs and tails, some buggers, barbs of side feathers for tails on dry flies.

Glue: Zap-A-Gap, Supper Glue, or similar

1. Crimp barb.

2. Attach thread mid shank, leave hanging NO further forward.

3. Tie tail to top of shank, extending shank length beyond shank. Cut any butt ends at MID shank.Position thread at rear of shank.

4. Attach herl tips. Using dubbing hook, form loop with herl, advance thread to MID shank, twist tomake chenille, wrap forward to MID shank. Tie off, cut excess.

5. Wing will be made with 2 small clumps of hairs.  Holding tips, cut one clump from tail. (Tip: always cut hair VERY close to hide.) Clean out all under fur. Using large stacker, stack TIPS.  Remove any more underfur or short hairs. Position on top of shank, tips above mid tail, make one thread wrap around hair only. Then one around both hair and shank, 2 more snug wraps- each one BEHIND the last. Cut butt ends at an angle, tie down butts. Apply sm. amt. glue, using tip of bodkin, to thread wraps and tied down hair. ( Tip: A moderate amount of glue placed in a plastic lid will not set up for quite awhile. This makes application of sm. amts. glue with bodkin easy.) Position thread right in front of wing. Repeat above with 2nd clump of hair. Position thread right infront of wing.

6. Splay barbs at butt end of hackle. Cut 4-5 short on both sides of stem forming a crew cut. Tie in crew cut. Position thread right in front of wing. Make 3-5 close hackle wraps forward forcing thread forward. Tie off, cut excess. Trim any whiskers. Wrap thread head if not already formed while tying in materials. Tie off. Sm. amt. glue to head.

Posted on July 29th, 2020

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Schroeder Hopper

by Elaine Cook. Fly Tying Master

This grasshopper pattern has been around for many years and the trout sure like it. Most hopper patterns today feature foam bodies and rubber legs, which are easier to tie and are more durable. There are times when the foam flies don’t work and the fish gobble the Schroeder imitation up. Since hoppers come in a variety of colors, the fly can be tied with wings in tan or cream. The body in tan, cream, yellow, brown, green or orange.

  • Hook: TMC 5212 or 5262.  Sizes 8/12
  • Thread: brown or tan. 8/0
  • Post: white calf body
  • Body: golden-brown Antron dubbing
  • Wing: mottled turkey quill
  • Legs: Ringneck Pheasant tail feather
  • Hackle: grizzly saddle
  • Thorax: same as body
  • Wing and Leg Coating: Flexament or clear lacquer spray

1. Coat or spray wing feather. Allow to dry.

2. Crimp barb.

3. Attach thread behind eye. Wrap to 1/3 back on shank.

4. Cut small clump calf hair from hide. Remove underfur. Stack tips. Position on top of shank, tips 1/2 shank length forward. Make several wraps to secure. Cut excess buts at an angle. Wrap down butts. Hold post upright, making many thread wraps in front of it to hold position. To secure, make several wraps around base, then pull thread to rear and make several wraps around shank. Repeat a couple times.

5. Wrap thread to rear of shank. Dub generous tapered body forward to 1/8 in. Behind post.

6. Separate barbs on quill wing making section equal to hook gap. Cut from stem.cut butt end straight across. Round the other end. Length equal to hook length. Place butt against post. Tie in place.

7. I like to prepare many ahead. Cut 4 barbs from stem and tie knot in center for each leg. This is tricky to do. Look on U-tube for various techniques, or buy them already prepared. Coat to reinforce. Tie in one on each side of wing. Knee should be near bend of hook. Trim length (see sample). Dub more over wing and leg tie in section.

8. Prepare butt end of hackle with crew cut. Tie in crew cut in front of post. Holding upright, make a couple thread wraps to hold in place. Dub generous thorax from eye to post. Wrap thread clockwise around post leaving it hanging on your side of fly. Wrap hackle clockwise around base of post 3 times. Holding hackle toward you and slightly down, bring thread up infront of hackle stem, then around base of post 3 times, then forward to eye. Tie off, cut excess. Cut excess hackle. Apply sm. Amt. glue to final thread wraps and base of post.

Posted on March 25th, 2020

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Bead Chain Bugger

by Fly Tying Master. Elaine Cook

This bugger pattern is very effective when twitched or stripped using a sinking line in stillwater. It can be varied in size and color. You will find this easy to tie.   Hooks: 4-12.   Body Colors: solid black, mottled black/olive, mottled black/brown, mottled black/tan, mottled brown/tan.  Tail, Hackle and Thread: color to match one of body colors. My favorite is as follows.

  • Hook: TMC 5263 size 8
  • Thread: 8/0 olive
  • Eyes: sm. or med. bead chain
  • Tail: fluffy olive marabou
  • Hackle: saddle, dun color, barbs equal to 1 and 1/2 hook gap
  • Body: mottled black/olive ,med. size
  • Glue: Super Glue , Zap-A-Gap or similar

1. Crimp barb.

2. Attach thread behind hook eye. Touching wraps to 1/3 back then forward to one hook eye length behind eye.

3. Attach bead chain eyes on top of shank with multiple  crisis-cross wraps then wraps around under side of balls but on top of shank. Repeat several times. Apply glue. Position thread mid shank.

4. Position marabou on top of shank, tips extending hook length to rear of shank. Tie in place up to bead chain then back to rear  of shank. Cut butts behind bead chain.

5. Holding tip of hackle, stroke bars so they stand out at right angles to stem. Tie in tip.

6. Pull fibers off 1/4 inch of end of chenille. Tie in exposed strings.

7. Position thread behind eyes. Wrap chenille forward in touching wraps. Tie off, cut excess. Palmer hackle forward in 6 wraps. Tie off, cut excess.

8. Wrap thread head in front of eyes. Whip finish. Cut thread. Apply glue.

Posted on April 26th, 2020

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Shad Dart

by Fly Tying Master - Elaine Cook

This, easy to tie, fly pattern has many material and color variations. Try using it for shad in rivers or perch in the surf. Shad fishing is right around the corner. And of course perch can be targeted usually in spring, summer and fall. Our surf fishouts will begin soon and may be an acceptable CDC outing due to the ability to practice social distancing of 6 feet or more.

  • Hook: Mustad 34007 or Eagle Claw 253SS , sizes 4-10
  • Thread: 6/0 , color to match head
  • Eyes: med size bead chain
  • Tail: marabou or calf tail, red, orange or white
  • Flash and Body: crystal  flash, red, orange or pearl
  • Head: sm. chenille or crystal chenille, red or orange
  • Coating: Sally Hansen’s Hard as Nails nail polish
  • Glue: Supper Glue, Zap-A-Gap or similar
  1. Crimp barb.
  2.  Attach thread behind hook eye. Touching wraps to mid shank then forward to 2 eye lengths behind eye.
  3. Tie in bead chain eyes on top of shank with many crisis-cross wraps and circular wraps below balls but above shank. Apply glue. Position thread at rear of shank.
  4. Use sm. amt. tail material. If calf tail,clean out underfur. Position material on top of shank. Tips, shank length to rear. Tie in place up to bead chain. Cut excess.
  5. Using 3 strands of crystal  flash, bend in half forming a loop. Tie to top of shank withloopextendingto tipof tail. Position thread behind bead chain. Wet strands. With touching wraps, wrap forward to bead chain, then back to tail, then forward again. Tie off, cut excess. Cut loop. Apply glue to body.
  6. Remove some fibers from end of chenille. Tie in strings behind bead chain. Position thread in front of bead chain.wrap chenille around both beads forming a round head.tie off, cut excess. Multiple thread wraps behind hook eye. Tie off, cut thread. Apply glue.
  7. Coat body and tie off thread wraps with Sally Hansen’s.

Posted on March 17th, 2020

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Schroeders Parachute Hopper

It’s never too early to get ready for summer with a few hoppers. This old pattern continues to be very effective and has an entirely different profile than foam patterns.

Hook: TMC 5262 or 5612, sizes 6 – 12
Thread: Tan 8/0
Post: White calf body
Body: Golden brown Antron dubbing
Wing: Mottled turkey quill feather
Legs: Ringneck Pheasant tail feather
Hackle: Grizzly, barbs 1 1/2 – 2 times hook gap
Thorax: Same as body

  1. Crimp barb.
  2. Attach thread behind eye in touching wraps 1/3rd back.
  3. Cut a small clump of calf body hair from hide. Clean and stack. Lay on shank with tips forward extending 1/2 shank length beyond tie in; securely tie in. Cut butts at an angle; wrap down. Holding upright make many wraps in front to hold upright.
  4. Dub generous body to within 1/8” of post.
  5. Treat windings with lacquer or Flexament. Separate section of quill 1/4” wide, cut according to diagram. Place round end to rear of fly, butt up against the post and tie in place.
  6. Using 6 – 8 Pheasant feather barbs, tie knot in center (tricky, go to web for techniques). Apply Zap-A-Gap to keep fibers together. Tie in one leg on each side behind post according to diagram. Cut excess.
  7. Prep hackle end with “crew-cut” (diagram). Tie in front of post. Hold upright and tie to base of post.
  8. Dub generous thorax. Leave thread hanging on your side of shank.
  9. Make 3 – 4 hackle wraps around base of post. While holding hackle downward, make 3 thread wraps around base of post.
  10. Tie off behind eye. cut excess hackle

Posted on March 22nd, 2020