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Green Flashy Clouser

by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

The clouser fly is designed to go after stripers either our local surf, Delta, O’Neill Forbay. and other waters that hold stripers. This is a style of tying a fly, and there are many different this one has been used successfully in the past at the Forbay and since fish are going for larger fish now this pattern has been increased in size.
HOOK: Mustard 34007 size 1/0 and 2/0.     Crimp bar
THREAD: white strong thread Such as: 3/0 monocord, flat waxed nylon, Dannille 2/0, Ultra thread 140 denier    Attach 1/3 back shank. Lay down thread base halfway to eye. Position thread 1/4 back on shank.
EYES: barbell eyes, either white or red with black pupil  Sizes 1/30 or 1/40 ounce. Attached to top of shank with figure 8 wraps and snug parachute wraps. Apply superglue, or similar. Allow to dry. leave thread hanging in front barbells.
LOWER BODY: chartreuse crystal flash. NOTE: for this and other materials being used, moisten for easy handling.Place center of 14 strands on top of shank where thread hangs. Make two thread wraps, move thread to behind barbells. Fold forward strands backward over top of barbells. Wrap, snuggly and place. advance thread to in front of barbells. Cut length to 2 1/2 inches from front of hookeye.
LOWER BODY CONTINUED: Mega Baitfish Emulator, flash pearl color. Get from Hairline Dubbin Inc.    NOTE: this material comes with ends stitch to a cloth strip. Cut a 5/8 inch piece of cloth strip. Hold material as a bundle, cut off cloth drip. Lay  center of bundle on top of shank and attached the same as crystal flash. advance thread to in front of barbells. cut to length of crystal flash
LOWER BODY CONTINUED: white bucktail.    Use clump about 3/4 the diameter of a wooden matchstick. Even tips by pulling out long tip fibers and stacking them on other fibers. Position tips at rear ends of mega bait fish. Secure in place with several snug thread wraps in front of barbells. Cut butt ends at an angle behind hookeye.. Tie down butt ends and trim any whiskers. Build up a thread nose with many thread wraps. Bring bundle over barbells snuggly tied down, keeping bundle on top of shank. With finish, cut thread, apply zap gap to all thread wraps and deer hair over bar bills. Allowed to dry.
UPPER BODY: Fire Fly peacock color,   Turn hook upside down. Reattached thread behind hook eye. Place center of bundle on top of shank where thread hangs.Make 2 thread wraps. Fold forward fibers backward. With touching thread wraps, tie in place back to barbells, then forward to hookeye. Whip  finish, cut thread. Apply glue to all thread wraps. Trimfibers to length of mega beta fish.



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Hemingway caddis

by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

This adult caddis is very similar to a Henryville Caddis. The larger sizes can be used pretty much anywhere and particularly in the Rocky Mountains. The very small ones are great in tail waters and spring creeks. Apply floating before fishing. Using a light dun hackle and quill wing make the fly easier to see.
HOOK: TMC 100 SIZES 12 TO 18. (I also tie size 20).    Crimp bar.
THREAD: gray or olive, 6/0 for larger flies, 8/0 for medium, or 10/0  or 14/0 for small. Attached 1/3 back, wrap to rear of shank.
HACKLE: Dun barbs equal to one hook gap.
Remove any fuzz at end of feather. Cut five or six barbs short on each side of butt end of steam (crew cut). Tie in crewcut with dull side feather facing you, tip of feather to rear.

BODY:  gray or olive super fine dubbing: Gray muskrat fur can also be used.
Dub a cigar shaped body up to thread tie in. Palmer hackle forward in about five wraps. tie cut excess.
UNDERWING: Wood duck or mallard flank feather.
Lineup tips of barbs. Using the hook gap as a guide cut that many from the stem. Tie to top of shank with tips, extending hook gap length beyond rear of body.
WING: mallard quill feather or secondary feathers of other birds also work. Apply silicon to feather ahead of time which will help keep the barbs from separating. If they do when fishing, the fish still respond to the fly readily.
Using the hook gap as a guide, use a Bodkin to separate the barbs. Cut section nearest the stem straight across, then fold in half length wise and cut a diagonal notch. ( See diagram). Position butt end on top of body with tips extending hook gap beyond rear of body. Pinch wing in half length wise and tie in place with several wraps. Cut excess and tie down butt ends.
HACKLE: dun hackle. Size, prep, and tie in the same as above.
THORAX: Peacock hurl.
Cut barbs from stem. Approximately four for larger hooks, three for medium, and one or two for small flies. Tie in tips make, dubbing loop. Advance thread to one eye length behind eye. Make chenille with dubbing tool. Close wraps to one eye behind eye. Tie off cut excess. Palmer hackle forward to one eye length behind eye. Tie off cut access. With finish. Apply glue to tie off threads.

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by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

When you talk about a “go to fly”, this has to be one of them. It’s an emerging caddis pattern, is easy to tie, uses few materials, floats nicely, lands on the water easily, and fish like it very well. NOTE: Directions are written for a size 16 hook. Adjust amount of material for other sizes.
HOOK: TMC 100, SIZES 14–20.    Crimp barb.
THREAD: olive or tan (to match body) 8/0.
Attached behind eye.
Touching wraps to mid shank.
SHUCK: ginger or amber , Micro Zelon,  Sparkle Emerger Yarn, or spooled Antron.
Separate fibers with bodkin.
Moisten fibers for easy handling.
Select about five strands.
Lay on top of shank, tips extending two shank lengths beyond eye.
Tie in place with 3 to 4 wraps.
Fold the forward Zelon to the rear.
Tie place with touching wraps to rear of shank.
Cut Zelon to shank length.
BODY: olive or tan Antron dubbing.
Dub a cigar shaped body forward to one eye length behind eye.
Trim wild hairs.
WING: Deer hair – medium thick fiber, with tips marked.
Cut clump of fibers from hide.
Clean out under fur. Finished clump should equal size of a wooden matchstick.
Hold clump above shank, tips above center of shuck.
Make one wrap around hair only, then three or four around hair and shank. The hairs will flare.
Stroke, butt fibers forward and upward into a bundle out over the eye.
Hold wing hairs in a bundle to the rear on top of the shank.
Make 10 touching thread wraps to the rear making a collar.
Advance thread to behind eye     That’s good honey
Bring forward hair upward and forward into a clump.
Cut hair fibers at an angle so they equal two eyed lengths long. See photo.
Half hitch behind eye 4-5 times.
Cut thread.
Super Glue to  collar and tie off threads.

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Mallard flank mayfly nymph

by Elaine Cook - flying chairman

The fly tying class this month is an AP nymph. It’s tied in the same manner, but using different materials. This pattern works well for flies sized 12 to 18. The AP nymph is better adapted to the larger hooks like 10 to 14. mayflies come in a variety of colors. More comonly tan, olive, brown and pale  yellow. use same color for thread, mallard, feather, body and thorax.
HOOK: TMC 200 R, sizes 12 to 18.   Crimp barb.
THREAD: color to match body    Attached mid shank, and wrap to rear of shank.
TAIL: Died mallard flank feather.    Stroke barbs so that tips are lined up. Cut approximately 6-10 barbs from stem. Position on top
of shank, tips to rear forming a short tail. (see sample). Attach to top of shank up to 1/3 back from eye. Cut excess.
RIB: Find gold wire.    Attach strand under hook shank back to tail.
BODY: Super fine dubbing. Dub a tapered body up to 1/3 back from eye. Spiral wire forward, 5 wraps. Tie off cut excess.
WING CASE: Died mallard, flank feather.   Prepare the feather in the same manner as above, but select twice the number of barbs.
Position on top of shank with tips to the rear, allowing length to be slightly longer than hook. Tie in place.
THORAX: Same dubbing as body.  A generous, round body. Finishing one eye length behind eye. Bring wing case forward over
thorax and tie down.
LEGS: Divide mallard barbs in half. Tied down one half on far side with tips to the rear, and 1/2 on the near side.
HEAD: Tie a small thread head, and then whip finish. Cut thread.


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Adult damsel

by Elaine, Cook - fly tying chairman

This particular fly works well for trout, bass and bluegill. I believe that having the original instructions to follow will be easier for you than trying to describe the construction the normal way. The measurements will not be to scale, so be sure to use a ruler The diagrams should be very helpful. Hope this works for you. If you have questions, don’t hesitate to call. 831-234-6515. Elaine

PDF version of Instructions:

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Midnight Cowboy

by Elaine Cook - fly tying instructor

Hook: TMC 5263 or TMC 200R   Sizes 6 (at Pyramid ) -12.   Adjust materials for the smaller flies.

Thread: black 6/0

Tail: Black marabou with fluffy tips ( straight tips can be broken off )

Tail Flash: both red and blue Flashabou

Hackle: Black strung hackle, AKA India hen back.

Body: Speckled midnight fire chenille ( black chenille with short projections of both red and blue flash )

1. Crimp barb.

2. Attach thread behind eye. Wrap to above hook barb, then forward to mid shank.

3. Note: moisten marabou for easy handling.  Cut moderately large clump from stem. If barbs are not at least 2 shank lengths long, tie in at rear of shank. Lay on top of shank, butt ends 2 eye lengths behind eye. Tie in place to top of entire shank. Advance thread 1/4 inch. Shorten length of tail, by pinching  not cutting, to length of hook (some prefer a tail half that length).

4. Holding one strand of both red and blue Flashabou together, moisten for easy handling, cut in half. Tie center of all strands to top of shank with a couple wraps. Holding half on far side of tail and half on near side, tie in place back to rear of shank. Cut to length of tail.

5. Holding tip of hackle, stroke all other barbs against the grain. Tie tip to rear of shank with shiny side facing you. Advance thread to 1-2 eye lengths behind eye.

6. Strip 1/4 ” chenille from center threads. Tie threads to shank. With touching wraps, wrap to rear of shank then forward to tie in. Tie of, cut excess.

7. Spiral (palmar) hackle forward in about 8 wraps, stroking barbs backward with each wrap. Tie off, cut excess.

8. Holding barbs back, wrap thread head. Whip finish. Cut thread. Apply Zap-A-Gap glue or similar.

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Loop Wing Leach (Dan’s Favorite leach pattern )

by Elaine, Cook – fly tying chairman

A simple fly to tie for trout in primarily still water. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it for largemouth bass or bluegill. Fishing the fly is most successful using a sinking line, a loop knot in your tippet and pulling with a short slow retrieve.

HOOK: TMC 5263 or other 3X long hook.
Crimp barb.
THREAD: 6/0 wine, maroon, rusty brown (or similar). Use black if tying a black leach.
Attached behind eye.
Touching wraps to rear of shank (Covering the shank is very important).
TAIL: marabou (Type without long pointed tips. Usually found at the side of the stem.) Burgundy or wine color. Black for black leech.
Cut a small bundle from the side of the stem.
Tie in butt ends in at rear of shank.
Cut excess short and tie down.
Pinch tips off so tail measures the length of the hook.
BODY: Semi-Seal dubbing. Arizona, Semi-Seal blood leach color  OR Troutman Enterprise, Semi-Seal bloody leach color.
While holding a small ball of fibers, hand stack them and  put aside.
Make a dubbing loop and lock thread together at top of loop.
Advanced thread to one eye length behind eye.
Insert sparse  amounts of  dubbing into loop, close loop, twist forming a chenille.
Wrap chenille forward using touching wraps, stroking fibers backward with each wrap, up to one eye length behind the eye.
Tie off, cut access.
Brush some of the fibers straight up, and some straight down.
Pinch the fly with your thumb and fore finger, then stroke all the fibers to the rear forming a narrow body.

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Tiger and Zebra Midges

by Elaine, Cook - fly tying Chairman

Midges are the most abundant food for trout. During the winter, it is their main source of food. They come in a great variety of sizes and colors. This pattern simulate the midge pupa stage, therefore is fish subsurface. The bead usually represents the air bubble that brings them to the surface to hatch out. These two particular patterns are very commonly used and are very effective. Their size has nothing to do with the size fish they catch.
HOOK: TMC 2457 or similar scud hook   Sizes 16-22
Crimp barb.
BEAD: silver for zebra midge, gold for tiger midge.     Use size chart online for comparison of hook size to bed size.
Feed bead onto hook, small opening first.
THREAD: black 6/0, 8/0 or 12/0 depending on size of hook.
Attach behind bead. Touching wraps to part way around bend of hook (see picture). Wrap back to bead.
RIB: silver for zebra midge, gold for tiger midge.     Size medium, small, or fine, depending on size of hook.
Place on near side of hook shank, wrap in place back to rear thread wraps. make two thread wraps behind rib.
BODY: thread as above
At this point in going forward, spin bobbin counter clockwise to make thread lie flat. Wrap forward, beginning in front of wire up to bead with touching wraps. Wrap thread backward 3/4 of shank then forward to bead again. Then halfway back, then 1/4 back leaving thread, hanging behind bead.
RIB (continued) spiral wrap forward in about five wraps,  each getting slightly further apart than the last. Tie off with several wraps behind wire and several in front of wire then one behind wire and one in front of wire. Twist wire in awinterhelicopter type motion to cut. Never use good scissors.
FINISH: make multiple thread wraps behind bead and covering tied off wire rib. Whip finish. Cut thread. Apply glue. Coat body with UV resin, or glue, or sally Hansen hard as nails.

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Scintilla Bubble

by Elaine, Cook —flytying Chairman

This fly imitates a midge sending to the surface. The air bubble (bead) is making the ascension possible. Midges hatch throughout the year and most still waters and moving waters. It’s best finished using an indicator. Take this fly, and the October caddis that will be taught at the flytying class to the upper Sacramento and McLeod rivers in late October to mid November.
Hook:    Size 16-24 (TMC, TFS 2487).
Thread:    black 8/0
Bubble:    One petite or extra small, clear glass bead plus 5X tippet.
Tail:     dark rust, stiff bird, hackle
Thorax:    Dark olive, super find dubbing.
Head:      Black thread

1.    Crimp barb.   NOTE: end of shank is above barb
2.    Attach thread 2/5 back on shank with about six wraps. Leave bobbin hanging at rear of wraps.
3.    Slip bead onto tippet and position in the center. Fold backward and hold strands together. Place on hook shank, bead forward of eye, tippet to rear, make several thread wraps. Pull on tippet to move bed into position. Makes several snug thread wraps 1/8 inch to rear.
4.    Bend tippet toward eye and snuggly tie down up to behind bead. Cut excess.
5.    Cut about 12 barbs off stem of hackle keeping tips aligned. Lay on top of shank, tips extending about two hook lengths to rear of shank. Secure to shank behind bed with wraps to mid shank. Pull on barb butts positioning tips so they are hook shank length beyond shank. Attached to shank with touching wraps back to slightly beyond end of hook shank. Cut excess hackle butts behind bed.
6.   Wrap thread forward, forming slender  tapered body up to bead.
7.    Wrap a small thorax, two wraps behind bead, one in front, two around base of bead.
8.    Wrap a small thread head, whip finish, cut thread.



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Blue Winged Olive

by Elaine Cook – flytying chairman

This dry fly is an absolute must for the upcoming fishout to Mammoth Lakes. Be sure to use this in the high Sierra streams, Hot Creek,, and the upper Owens. don’t hesitate to use this fly throughout the west and the north east as well. The fish in the Rockies particularly like the larger flies. This thorax fly tying style was developed around 75 years ago by Vince Marinaro for the limestone streams of the Northeast.
HOOK: TMC 10o (standard dry fly) size is 12–18.     The small flies work well in spring creeks and tail waters.
Crimp Barb.
THREAD: Olive 8/0.
Attach thread, mid shank, and leave hanging 1/3 back from eye.
WING: light, gray, turkey flat.
Select a bunch of turkey, flat, barbs, lining up tips and cutting from stem. Measure turkey flat barbs  equal in length to hook shank and tie and on top of shank with Tips extending beyond eye.  Cut bar butts off at an angle. Stand wing upright, making several wraps as a dam to hold barbs vertical. Return thread to cut Barb butts.
TAIL: light dun hackle fibers. (Side feather from chicken neck that has stiffer barbs).
Select 10–12 hackle barbs, line up tips, tie in so tips are one hook shank length beyond the end of the shank. Last wrap under tail  to keep from bending downward. Cut, butts even with cut wing butts.
BODY: Olive, superfine dubbing. ( the natural insect varies in color from olive, to pale olive gray, to yellow olive green, to rusty olive).
Dub a slender body up to mid shank.
HACKLE: light dun neck, or saddle
Select hackle with barbs 1 1/2 hook gap long. Remove any fuzz at butt end, stroke barbs against grain at butt end. Cut several barbs short off each side of butt end. Lay that section on side of shank, tip to rear and tie in place. dub remainder of hook to one eye length behind eye. Spiral hackle forward in three turns behind wing and three turns in front of wing. Tie off cut access. Wrap, a small thread head, whip finish, cut thread, and seal with his cement, if desired.

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Parachute Ant with Orange Post

by Elaine Cook – fly, tying chairman

There are many ant patterns, most of which are hard to see on the surface of the water. Posting them makes them far easier to see, particularly if post is orange in color. Ant patterns are most effective mid summer on, and are more available to fish on windy days. Add floatant and fish with a drag free presentation. Good in still water as well.

HOOK: TMC 100 – sizes 12 to 16.
Crimp barb.
THREAD:  black 8/0.
Attach mid shank. Make a few wraps toward the rear.
BACK:   Orange spooled Antron.
Using about a 2 inch strand, attach to top of shank back to above barb.
REAR BODY: Black, superfine dubbing — black Sharpie marking pen.
Dub bulbous rear body up to mid shank. Pull Antron forward and tie down.
MID BODY: Antron, and black thread.
With touching wraps, attach Antron to top of shank up to 1/4 back on shank. If tying size 14 or 16 hooks, additional touching thread
wraps back to rear body, then forward again. Using Sharpie pen, darken Antron  over rear body.
POST: continuation of orange Antron.
Holding Antron upright, wrap, touching thread wraps around Antron in 5 to 6 wraps up, then down in 5 to 6 to shank. Make a
couple of wraps in front of post to hold it upright. Trim Antron equal to hook length.
HACKLE: grizzly equal to one and a half to 2 times hook gap.
Prepare hackle by cutting off fuzzy end, then cut about six barbs short on each side at bottom of stem. Place shiny side against shank, tip to rear, and cut barbs at base of post. Tie in place in front and behind post. Hold hackle upright, post upward with 4 to 5 wraps then back down again.
FORE-BODY: Black, super fine dubbing.
Dub a small fore-body from eye back to the middle of the mid body.
HACKLE  continued.
Reposition thread by wrapping around base of post. Start behind post and let thread hang in front of post on your side. Using
hackle pliers, wrap hackle around base of post about 3-4 times and leave hanging down from shank on your side. Bring the thread up in-front of hackle, parallel to table, and wrap around post through hackle 3 to 4 times. Half hitch 3 to 4 times behind eye. Cut thread. Cut excess hackle. Cut Antron so it is hook  shank length above shank. Push up on hackle barbs from beneath to be sure they are parallel to the table. Cut any that hang below.



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Renegade fly

by Elaine Cook – – fly tying Sherman

This dry fly pattern has been around for decades. It is an effective attractor, easy to tie, easy to see.
1. HOOK: TMC 100 (or any standard dry fly hook).  Size 10-18
Crimp barb.
2. THREAD: Black 6/0, or 8/0 depending on size of hook.
Attach thread, 3/4 back on shank.
3. TAG: small or find flat gold tinsel.
Tie  in back to above barb with silver side facing you. Hand wrap tinsel around 1/3 of curve of hook and back to starting point.
NOTE: that will expose gold side of tinsel. Tie off cut access.
4.  REAR HACKLE: brown or grizzly    Barbs equal to 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 times hook gap. Remove any fuzz at base of stem. Cut 4 to 5 barbs short on each side of stem (crew cut). Tie crew cut in with feather tip to the rear and light side of feather facing you. Advance thread 1/4 back on shank. Wrap feather  forward to thread with close wraps and tie off. Cut excess.
5. BODY: peacock herl.
Using 2 to 4 strands, break off fragile tips. Tie in tips. Reinforce hurl with thread loop and dubbing tool. Advance thread to 1/4 back on shank. Twist thread loop forming a chenille. Wrap chenille forward forming a generous body. Tie off cut access.
6. FORWARD HACKLE: white or cream grizzly   Barbs equal two 1 1/2 to 2 times hook gap.
Prepare feather the same as above. Move thread to one by length behind eye. Wrap feather forward with close wraps. Tie off, cut excess. Wrap small thread head. Tie off, cut thread. Apply superglue, if using a large hook.

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Vernille Caddis

by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

This is one of my “go to flies”. A caddis hatch does not need to be occurring for trout to gobble it up. The larger size works  well in the Rocky Mountains, smaller in the Sierras. Fish with a floating line, and drag free drift in moving water.
HOOK: TMC 2487, sizes 14–16.
Crip barb.
THREAD:  olive or dun olive.        size 8/0 for 14 hooks, 10 or 12/0 for size 16
Attach 2 eye lengths behind eye.
Touching wraps to above barb.
BODY:  Olive:  vernille, ultra chenille, or velvet chenille in size small or fine. Super glue or the like.
Using a candle, carefully melt end of strand by placing it near the base of flam to round the end. It takes very little exposure to the
Apply super glue using bodkin to thread wraps.
Place on top of shank, melted end above rear of hook.
One wrap to secure.
Spiral wraps to mid shank.
Cut excess.
Tie down stub.
UNDER-WING: dun spooled Antron
Position thread in front of body.
Cut to even fibers.
Lay on top of body with tip slightly beyond end of body.
Tie in place.
Cut excess.
Tie down butt ends up to eye.
Splay fibers.
HACKLE: medium dun
Select feather with barbs equal to hook gap.
Prep butt end: cut off fuzz, stroke barbs against grain, cut 5 to 6 barbs short on each side of stem “crewcut”.
Tip to rear.
Dark side facing you
Butt end behind eye.
Tie in place back to body.
WING:  light deer hair with fine fibers
Cut fibers from hide so that bundle is width of a matchstick or slightly less.
Clean out underfur stack tips.
Position on top of shank, tips extend into ends of underwing.
Tie in place, first thread wrap around hair only, then several snugly around  fibers and shank., to splay fibers.
Touching wraps up to eye.
Stroke butt hairs into bundle over eye at 45° angle upward.
Make two wraps around base of bundle.
HACKLE  (cont.).
Make 3 to 5 Hackle wraps forward.
Tie off, cut access.
Half-hitch behind eye and under hair fibers.
Cut thread.
Cut head on an angle. “See photo”.
Apply glue to final thread wraps, using bodkin.
Cut short, any stray fibers.

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Klinkhamer ( modified )

by Elaine Cook – fly tying Sherman

This caddis is imitation represents the insect emerging from the water to become an adult. Its body hangs below the water surface, the thorax and lower hackle barbs in the surface film and the wing upright out of the water. Apply saliva to the body, floatant to remainder of the fly. I have modified this pattern to make it easier to tie smaller sizes, and not quite so complicated. If you wish to see the original version, check on YouTube.
HOOK: TMC 2487 or 200 R ,(original Partridge GRS 15 ST, which is hard to find ). Sizes 8-18. Crimp barb.
THREAD: 8/0 color to match body (grey, tan, or black).
Attached thread one eye length behind eye. Spiral wrap to rear of hook and partway around bend. Spiral wrap back up to two eye
lengths behind eye. Reposition hook in vice with tip upright.
WING (POST ): White, yellow, or orange spooled Antron
Stack two 1 inch long pieces of Antron. Position center on top of shank. Made two thread wraps. Hold all fibers upright. Make several wraps
around base,working up about 1/8 inch. then back to shank. This is called “posting “. Cut wing equal to hook gap.
HACKLE: dun, brown or chestnut , or black (depending on thread color )
Select hackle with barbs equal to 1 1/2 to 2 hook gaps. Prepare but end by cutting off fuzz , cut 6 to 8 barbs short on both sides of stem. This
is called a “crew cut”. Tie crew cut in at base of wing and post up about 1/8 inch. Dull side should face wing.
BODY: Gray, tan or brown, or black Super fine dubbing.
Dub a thin layer back to rear thread wraps. Then a thin tapered body up to wing.
THORAX: peacock hurl.
Select one or two strands depending on size of hook. Break off fragile tips. Tied in tips add base of wing. Make chenille out of hurl .
Position thread in front of post. Wrap chenille around base of post to make a thorax. Tie off, cut access.
HACKLE ( cont.).
Re-position thread in clockwise direction around base of wing and leave hanging on your side of hook. Wrap hackle around wing 3 to 4 times,
each wrap closer to thorax. Hold hackle tip down on your side, bring thread up parallel to table at shank level, make three clockwise
thread wraps around wing between barbs and thorax. Advance thread to eye. Wrap small head with half hitches. Tie off with half hitches,
cut thread, cut excess hackle feather. Trim any barbs that hang below shank.

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Henryville Special

by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

This adult Caddis pattern is designed for moving water but also works in stillwater for trout. Apply floatant and allow a drag free drift.
HOOK: TMC 100 size 12-20.
Crimp barb.
THREAD: Olive 8/0.
Apply 1/3 back on shank. Wrap to rear of shank.
RIB: grizzly Hackle, barbs equal to hook gap.
Cut off fuzzy end. Stroke barbs so that they stand out sideways. Cut 5 to 6 short on each side of the stem forming a “crew cut”.
Tie in “crew cut “ to rear of shank with dull side toward you and tip to the rear.
BODY: light olive super fine dubbing
Dub a cigar shaped body 2/3 forward on shank. Palmer grizzly forward in about four wraps. Tie off, cut excess. Cut off tops of
barbs at an angle leaving shorter stubs at head end.
UNDERWING: Lemon wood duck or mallard flank feather (well barred)
Even up tips of barbs and cut out 6–8. Tie in on top of shank, in front of body, with tips extending hook gap length beyond body.
Cut butt ends, tie down.
OVERWING: mallard wing quill. Light or medium gray. Seagull feathers also work. Some caddis are tan with modeled wings. So a    variety of birds can work. Do not use primary feathers. Select a soft feather with narrow barbs. Look for sections of feather that will form a nice taper (not to pointed or blunt) when one section is removed. See picture.
Prepare quill by spraying with clear, fast drying lacquer and allow to dry. Most authorities will recommend using two feathers, one from each side of the bird to have mirror image curves. If using flat quills, that isn’t necessary. Using a bodkin, separate two segments that are about hook gap wide at the stem end. Cut near stem. If tips are too pointed, trim to shape. Place one segment on each side with bottom edge of wing at shank level.  Tips  extending almost to end of underwing, and tips down. Use pinch method twice to tie in place
in front of body. Cut but ends, tie down. NOTE: The quail barbs will separate as you fish the fly. This will only make it more attractive to the fish.
HACKLE: Brown, barbs one and a half hook gap.
Prepare the same as grizzly hackle. Tie “crew cut”  to top of shank in front of wing with shiny side toward you and tip to the rear.
Wrap hackle forward, forcing thread as you go, with about 4 touching wraps up to one eye length behind eye.Tie off, cut excess.
Apply a small amount of glue to head.

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Golden Stoneflies

by Elaine Cook —fly tying Chairman

Stoneflies emerge from rivers or streams by crawling across the bottom and out onto structure. Then break out of their nymphal shuck into an adult and fly around to find a mate.  They usually emerge at lower elevations first starting in late June or early July, then at higher elevations slightly later. They are awkward flyers and often end up in the water providing a large amount of protein for trout.
1. HOOK: TMC 200R , yellow floss
Crimp barb.
Attach floss behind eye, touching wraps to rear of shank, then forward to near hook eye, tie off behind eye. Apply small amount glue to tie off.

2. BODY: yellow 8/0 thread, 2 mm thick yellow foam, hat pin
Cut foam strip 1/4 inch wide. Round end.
Place hat pin in vise point forward.
Attach thread in center of hat pin.
Place foam on top with rounded end 1/8 inch beyond hanging thread.
While squeezing foam around hat pin make several snug thread wraps. Lift foam, make one thread wrap forward 1/8 inch, squeeze foam down again around hat pin and repeat process forward until there are 7 segments. Whip finish around foam and hook.Cut thread. Pull foam off hat pin. Form rounded head with remaining foam( see diagram ).
Attached thread to rear of shank.
Put foam body on top of shank with three sections extending to the rear and cut edges on top. Tie in place. Lift body. Advance. Lift body. Advance thread forward to next segment, tie in place. Then repeat process up to head.
Tie off under head.
Cut thread.

3. THREAD: Brown 8/0.
Attached behind head.
4. FLASH: yellow Krystal Flash
Using one strand, cut in half, tie center on top of body with 2 wraps.
Fold to rear, tie down back to center of last segment. Cut 1/4 inch beyond body.
5. WING: olive/brown, cream, clear, or yellow Thin Skin.
Advanced thread to just behind head.
Cut strip 1/4” wide and 2 inches long. Round one end.
Place on top of body rounded and 1/8 inch beyond rear body.
Tie in place back to middle of segment. Cut excess. Tie down stub.
6. OVER WING: Elk hairs from abdomen which have fine shafts
Clean out under hair stack tips.
Position on top of body, tips extending to end of crystal flesh.
Tie in place, first wrap of thread around only hair,then around both hair and body. Several wraps backward to center of segment.
Cut but ends short. Return bed thread to behind head.
7. LEGS: Crazy Legs- Golden brown,clear, or cream, with speckles or not
Using one strand, cut in half, then in half again.
Tie center of two segments on far side, then two segments on your side.
Tie off under head. Cut thread.
Using brown Sharpie marking pen color head.
Apply glue to neck area top and bottom.

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PVC caddis larva

by Elaine Cook – fly tying Chairman

Caddis larva are available to trout year-round. They protect themselves in an interesting way. They surround their bodies with pebbles or twigs and move around with their heads and legs sticking out the front of this tube. This pattern simulates the larva out of its protective casing which occurs when they have outgrown their last one or they are ready to ascend to the surface as a pupa. Some caddis larva are free floating without a case. The PVC in the name of this pattern originated on the lower Owens River when former club member, Walt Robinson, speared one while fishing. We sat down and devise this fly then went out and successfully fished it all week. The type of thread used for the body is very important. Because of its thickness and shinny properties.

HOOK: TMC 200,2312, or 100  sizes 14–18.    Crimp barb

THREAD: kevlar, in natural (light cream)or olive color.
  • Attach thread 1/8 inch behind eye for smaller hooks, 3/16 inch for size 14 hooks.
  • NOTE: During all thread wraps keep thread flat by spinning counterclockwise.
  • Touching thread wraps toward rear of shank while holding tag at 45° angle.
  • Cut tag before end of shank.
  • Reposition hook with head lowered downward. This will make it easier to apply thread to rear of hook.
  • Continue rapping partway around bend of hook
BODY: same thread as above.
  • Keeping thread flat as described above, wrap thread forward to starting position. Then back to within one short of prior thread wraps. Repeat one more time.  NOTE: at this time you will have six wraps of thread on the shank that is slightly tapered at the rear.
  • Repeat one more time if tying size 14 hook.
  • Now make wraps to mid shank and back again to tie in. NOTE: at this time a tapered body has been formed.
  • Bring thread onto shank with one wrap.
  • Whip finish, cut thread.
  • Apply Zap-A-Gap or similar glue to entire body, let dry.
HEAD: Black 8/0 thread, AND peacock herl.
  • Attached thread behind eye.
  • Select one strand of peacock herl for small flies and two for size 14 hooks, that have barbs of moderate length.
  • Pinch off fragile tip.
  • Tie in tip back to body.
  • Advance thread to eye.
  • Wrap hurl forward using 4 wraps.
  • Tie off, cut excess, whip finish, cut thread.
  • Glue to tie off threads.
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Pyramid beetle -White over chartreuse

by Elaine Cook – fly time chairman

Pyramid lake has a particular beetle with these colors that goes to the bottom of the lake then ascends to the surface to take a breath. Then repeat this process over and over. Because this fly is made of foam and is used on a sinking line, when you strip it descends and when you pause it starts to rise up, which imitates the actual beetle. This is a simple fly to tie and if you’re going to Pyramid you must have one in your box.  NOTE:  Photo colors are not true, use color descriptions in instructions.

Hook: TMC 2457 size 6.
Thread: white 3/0 monochord or equivalent.
Overbody: white close cell foam, 2 mm thick.
Underbody: cactus chartreuse chenille.

1. Crimp barb.
2. Attach thread behind eye, wrap to above barb with touching wraps.
3. Cut foam in shape shown in diagram.
4. Wrap thread forward and touching wraps to two eye lengths behind eye.
5. Place tapered end of foam on top of shank positioning point toward the front where the thread hangs.
6. Wrap foam snuggly to top of shank back to above barb, then thread wraps forward to two eye lengths behind eye.
7. Tie in chenille. Wrap backward, each wrap against the last until above barb. Then forward in same manner to hanging thread. Tie off, cut access.
8. Pull foam forward till snugly against top of chenille. Make several snug thread wraps.
9. Whip finish under foam and behind hook eye. Cut thread.
10. Cut off excess foam, leaving 1/4 inch in front of thread wraps.
11. Apply Zap-A-Gap or similar glue to thread wraps.

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Fly tying Tips

by Elaine Cook – fly tying chairman

Ever wonder what to do with that small plastic container you get when you buy flies? A piece of fuzzy fabric glued to the inside bottom works well when trying to contain beads and hold them in place while threading a bead onto a hook.

Having trouble keeping track of your hooks and flies at your fly tying desk? A magnet like those that come in hook packages can solve this problem. Just glue it to the base of

When applying glue to a hook that you are in the process of tying materials to, the last thing you want is for the glue to drop down into your bobbin which ruins the tool. Here are a couple of ways to suspend it off to the side.

Do you if you like Zap-A-Gap glue but get tired of it clogging up, here are a few suggestions:
1. When you first use the container, uncap and attach the narrow plastic funnel to the top. (Save the cap) amazingly no need to recap because for some reason it doesn’t solidify in the narrow opening between uses.

2. When the above fails, remove funnel and use in the normal way, recapping between uses. Do wipe end off with soft cloth before capping.

3. When the above starts clogging use a safety pin to open the hole.

4. Finally when the above fails, cut off the tip. (See diagram)

These techniques will probably get you through the whole bottle.

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Chironomid in red or amber

by Elaine Cook – fly tying chairman

Chironomid’s are more commonly called midges. They are the most abundant food source for trout and can be found in any freshwater , but most abundant in still water. They are available to trout year-round. This pattern simulates a midge in its pupa stage which is between larva and adult. Best fished under an indicator.
HOOK: TMC 200, Dai-Riki 270, Daiichi 1270.    Sizes 12-18.
Crimp Barb.
THREAD: Black 6/0.
Attach behind hook eye. Touching wraps to 2 eye lengths behind eye. NOTE: frequently spin bobbin counter clockwise to keep thread flat.
TAIL and GILLS: White High-Vis or Darlon or similar. (Same material for both. Gills in front of hook,  tail in rear, )
Separate fibers with bodkin. Use about 15 to 20 strands. Lay bundle on top of shank extending about hook shank length beyond eye. Tie in place with touching wraps back to slightly past rear of shank. Cut bundle about hook shank length beyond rear of hook.
BODY: red  Flashabou under red vinyl D-Rib (choose size to match size of hook).    OR.    Pearl Flashabou under amber vinyl D-Rib.
Attach Flashabou extending to the rear.  Thread wraps 2 eye lengths forward.  Cut piece of D-Rib 3” long. Cut one end at an angle. Position D-Rib, flat side down, extending to rear, and point where thread hangs. Tie in with snug touching wraps back to tail. Advance thread forward in one wrap to the D-Rib tie in. Using touching thread wraps, wrap forward to gill tie in, then back to the D-Rib tie in, then forward to gill tie in again. This will form a body with uniform thickness. Wrap Flashabou forward with touching or overlapping wraps to cover thread. Tie off cut access. Make one half hitch. While gently pulling on the rib material, make first wrap behind prior wraps then forward with touching wraps to gill tie in. Tie off cut access.
THORAX: peacock herl.
Divide gill fibers and pull out to each side of shank. Make criss cross thread wraps to hold in place. Using 1-3  pieces of herl depending on size of hook, pull off fragile tips. Tie tips in behind gills. Make dubbing loop, insert hurl, then twist to make chenille. Advance thread to behind eye. Wrap chenille behind and in front of gills. Tie off, cut excess. Wrap small thread head. Whip finish, cut thread. Cut out a few tail fibers. Trim gills and tail. (See photo)